Watch dealer glossary

Glossary

The words watch dealers use every day, in plain English. From BNIB and full links to Batman and Pepsi, this is the vocabulary behind every listing on Soda.

Condition

How a watch has been worn, finished and kept.

Unworn Also: BNIB · Brand New In Box: Never worn. Often still has factory stickers and protective film.
Fresh: Unworn and only days out of the boutique or first sale.
NOS Also: New Old Stock: An older or discontinued watch that was never sold or worn.
Pre-Owned Also: Preowned: Previously sold and worn. "Pre-owned OK" means worn watches are fine for the client (unworn ones match too).
Like New Also: LNIB · Like New In Box: Pre-owned with barely any visible signs of wear.
Slider: Pre-owned but indistinguishable from new; often only the card date gives it away.
Excellent: Light wear from careful use. No deep scratches or dings.
Very Good: Normal light wear visible on close inspection.
Honest Also: Good: Clearly worn, not abused. Wear is consistent with its age.
Beater Also: Fair: Worn hard as a daily watch; expect visible scratches and marks.
Retail Ready: Clean, serviced and ready to go straight into a showcase.
Sharp: Case edges and bevels are still crisp, as they left the factory.
Unpolished: Never polished. Original factory finishing intact. Valued by collectors.
Polished Also: Over-polished: Buffed to remove scratches. Heavy polishing softens edges and can reduce value.
All Original Also: OG: Every part is original to the watch as it left the factory.
Correct Also: Period-correct: All parts are original or correct for that reference and era.
Service Parts Also: Service dial · service hands: Replacement parts fitted by the brand during a service.
Patina: Natural ageing of the dial, hands or lume over time.
Tropical Also: Tropical dial: A dial that has faded from black to brown over decades.
Numbers Matching: Serials on case, movement and papers all agree. Important for vintage.
Safe Queen: A watch kept in the safe and rarely worn.
Stickers On Also: Stickered: Factory protective stickers still in place.
Sealed Also: Double sealed: Factory seals intact; never opened.

Set & documentation

What comes with the watch: boxes, papers, cards and tags.

Full Set Also: Complete · Full Kit · Box & Papers · B&P: The watch with everything it originally came with: boxes, papers, tags, links and accessories.
Watch & Box Also: Box Only: Comes with the original box but no papers.
Watch & Papers Also: Papers Only: Comes with the warranty card/papers but no box.
Card Only: Comes with the warranty card only.
Watch Only Also: Naked: Just the watch on its bracelet or strap. Nothing else.
Head Only: The watch head without bracelet or strap, and no extras.
Outer Box: The exterior box the inner watch box sits in. Part of a true full set.
Inner Box: The presentation box the watch sits in.
Hang Tag Also: Green tag: The tag attached to a new watch at the boutique, usually with reference and serial.
Papers Also: Warranty papers: The original warranty card or certificate that came with the watch. "Papers required" means only watches with their papers match.
Card Dated Also: Papers dated: The sale date on the warranty card. Used to date the watch.
Stamped Papers: Warranty papers stamped by the authorised dealer at original sale.
Open Papers: Warranty card not filled in with buyer or dealer details.
Blank Papers: Card with no buyer, dealer or stamp. Can raise provenance questions.
Punched Papers: Older-style papers hole-punched by the dealer at sale.
New Style Card: The latest-generation warranty card (for Rolex, the 2020+ card with NFC chip).
Cardless Also: No card: Sold without its warranty card. Common with older pieces.
Under Warranty: Still within the manufacturer's warranty period.
Reference Also: Ref · Ref number: The brand's model number for a specific configuration.
Serial Also: Serial number: The unique number of an individual watch. Private on our platform.
Scrambled Serial: Randomised serials used by Rolex since around 2010; dating relies on the card.

Market & deal terms

How dealers price, trade, ship and pay.

AD Also: Authorised Dealer: A retailer officially authorised by the brand to sell new watches.
Grey Market Also: Grey dealer · Gray market: Genuine watches sold outside the brand's official channels.
Wholesaler: A dealer who sells in volume to other dealers, not to the public.
Pre-Owned Dealer: A dealer specialising in previously owned watches.
MSRP Also: Retail · Sticker · List price: The brand's official retail price.
Over Retail Also: Over list: Trading above retail price because of demand.
Under Retail: Trading below retail price.
Market Price Also: Market value: What a watch is actually selling for right now.
Asking vs. Selling: What a watch is listed at versus what it actually trades for.
Comps Also: Comparables: Recent sales of the same reference used to price a watch.
Price Check Also: PC: Asking what a fair price is for a specific watch and condition.
Spread: The difference between buy price and sell price.
Hot Piece: A watch in high demand that sells fast.
Dog: A watch that's hard to sell.
Brick: A watch that has lost value and is very hard to move.
Discontinued Also: Disco · Disco'd: No longer produced by the brand. Often pushes prices up.
Sleeper Also: Future classic: An overlooked model expected to rise in value.
Flip Also: Flipping: Buying a watch to resell quickly for profit.
Consignment Also: On consignment: Selling a watch on behalf of its owner for an agreed cut.
Memo Also: On memo: Sending a watch to another dealer on trust; paid when it sells.
Wire Ready Also: Cash ready: Buyer ready to pay immediately by wire.
Lowball: An offer far below asking or market price.
+ Label Also: Plus label: Price excludes shipping; the buyer pays for the label.
Shipped: Price includes shipping.
Own Label Also: Buyer's label: The buyer provides their own prepaid shipping label.
Sold Order: A committed purchase at an agreed price. Payment is coming.
Soft Call: A casual price enquiry, not a commitment.
Hard Call: A serious enquiry with real intent to buy or sell.
Reference Check: Checking someone's reputation with dealers they've traded with.
Vouch Also: Vouched: Public confirmation from other dealers that someone is legitimate.
Middleman: A trusted third party who receives and inspects the watch before it goes to the buyer.
Escrow: A third party holding funds until a deal completes. (Our platform does not hold funds.)
Ghosting Also: Ghosted: Disappearing mid-deal without communication.
Soft Close: Auction end time extends when late bids come in, preventing sniping.
Hard Close: Auction ends at a fixed time with no extensions.
Binding Bid: A bid the bidder is obligated to honour if they win.
NFS Also: Not For Sale: Shown off, not for sale.
Safe Sale: A discreet sale shared privately, never advertised publicly.
Price Point: The client wants the watch as cheaply as possible and doesn't need the box or papers. Watch-only pieces fit best; ones with box or papers are possible matches.

Listing abbreviations

The shorthand you’ll see in listings and posts.

FS: For Sale
FSOT: For Sale Or Trade
WTS: Want To Sell
WTB: Want To Buy
NTQ: Need To Quote (buyer requesting prices)
WTT: Want To Trade
ISO: In Search Of
NIB: New In Box
BNIB: Brand New In Box
LNIB: Like New In Box
OBO: Or Best Offer
B&P: Box & Papers
L2L: Lug-to-lug
AM: Aftermarket
OEM: Original manufacturer part
SS: Stainless steel
YG / WG / RG: Yellow / white / rose gold
PT: Platinum
TT: Two-tone (steel and gold)
MOP: Mother of pearl
COSC: Swiss chronometer certification
DLC / PVD: Hard coatings applied to cases, most often in black or other dark colours

Watch details

Cases, bezels, bracelets, movements and more.

Bezel: The ring around the dial; fixed or rotating.
Ceramic Also: Cerachrom: Scratch-resistant bezel material on modern sports models.
Pre-Ceramic Also: Aluminium bezel: Sports models made before the switch to ceramic bezels.
Crystal Also: Sapphire · Hesalite · Acrylic: The clear cover over the dial. Sapphire is modern; acrylic/hesalite on vintage.
Cyclops: Magnifier over the date window.
Crown Also: Screw-down crown: The winding/setting knob; screw-down crowns seal the case.
Lugs Also: L2L · Lug-to-lug: Where the bracelet attaches; lug-to-lug length drives how it wears.
Case Back Also: Exhibition back · Display back: The rear cover; exhibition backs show the movement.
Links Also: Full links · Short links · -2 links: Bracelet segments. "Full links" means none missing; "-2 links" means two missing.
Destro Also: Left-handed: Crown on the left side of the case.
Strapped / Unstrapped: Sold with or without its bracelet or strap.
Oyster: Rolex three-link sports bracelet.
Jubilee: Rolex five-link dressier bracelet.
President: Rolex semi-circular three-link bracelet on precious-metal models.
Oysterflex: Rolex rubber strap with a metal core.
Automatic Also: Self-winding: Mechanical movement wound by wrist motion.
Manual Wind Also: Hand-wound: Mechanical movement wound by the crown.
Caliber Also: Cal. · Movement: The movement's reference number.
In-House: Movement made by the brand itself.
Power Reserve: How long the watch runs when fully wound.
Complication: Any function beyond telling time.
Chronograph Also: Chrono: Built-in stopwatch function.
GMT Also: Dual time: Shows a second time zone.
Annual Calendar: Date adjusts automatically except once a year.
Perpetual Calendar Also: QP: Date adjusts for month lengths and leap years.
Moon Phase: Displays the phase of the moon.
Tourbillon: Rotating cage for the escapement; a high-end complication.
Everose: Rolex's proprietary rose gold.

Dials

Dial types, colours and the rare variants collectors chase.

Sunburst: Radial brushed finish that shifts with the light.
Lacquer: Glossy, mirror-like finish.
Matte: Flat, non-reflective finish.
Gilt: Glossy dial with gold-coloured printing; collectible on vintage Rolex.
Enamel: Fired enamel dial with deep, lasting colour.
Meteorite: Dial cut from meteorite with a natural crystalline pattern.
Mother of Pearl: Iridescent shell dial; each one unique.
Salmon: Pink/copper-toned dial.
Fumé: Gradient dial, darker at the edges.
Tapisserie: Textured grid pattern on AP Royal Oak dials.
Guilloché: Engraved decorative pattern.
Aventurine: Sparkling dial resembling a night sky.
Tiffany Dial: Dial co-signed by Tiffany & Co.; highly sought after, and added signatures are a known fake.
Spider Dial: Dial with fine cracking from age.
Ghost Dial Also: Ghost bezel: Vintage dial faded almost completely (a faded bezel insert is a "ghost bezel")

Modifications

Changes made after the watch left the factory.

Aftermarket Also: AM: Any non-original part added after the watch left the factory. Must be disclosed on listings.
Frankenwatch Also: Franken: Assembled from parts of different watches.
Bust Down Also: Iced out: Aftermarket diamonds added.
Factory Set: Gems set by the manufacturer.
Dial Swap: Original dial replaced with a different one.
Custom Also: Modded: Personalised with aftermarket parts.

Rolex reference codes

What the letters at the end of a Rolex reference mean.

LN: Black bezel
LV: Green bezel
LB: Blue bezel
BLRO: Blue and red bezel on a Rolex GMT-Master II ("Pepsi")References: 126719BLRO116719BLRO126710BLRO
BLNR: Blue/black bezel ("Batman")
VTNR: Green/black bezel ("Sprite")
CHNR: Brown/black bezel ("Root Beer")
GRNR: Grey/black bezel
RBOW: Rainbow gem-set bezel
SARU / SABR / SANR / SACO: Rolex codes for gem-set bezels with coloured sapphires, rubies and/or diamonds (including black and cognac sapphires)

Nicknames

The names dealers actually use, and the references behind them.

Pepsi: GMT-Master or GMT-Master II with a blue and red bezelReferences: 126719BLRO167101675116719BLRO126710BLRO
Batman: GMT-Master II, blue/black bezelReferences: 116710BLNR126710BLNR
Batgirl: GMT-Master II, blue/black on JubileeReferences: 126710BLNR
Sprite: GMT-Master II, green/black, left-hand crownReferences: 126720VTNR
Coke: GMT-Master (II), red/black bezelReferences: 1671016760
Root Beer: GMT-Master II, brown/black bezelReferences: 126711CHNR126715CHNR
Fat Lady: GMT-Master II, thicker caseReferences: 16760
Hulk: Submariner Date, green dial and bezelReferences: 116610LV
Kermit: Submariner Date with a green bezel (126610LV is also called "Starbucks")References: 16610LV126610LV
Starbucks: Submariner Date, black dial, green ceramicReferences: 126610LV
Smurf: Submariner Date, white gold, blue dialReferences: 116619LB
Cookie Monster: Submariner Date, white gold, black dial, blue bezelReferences: 126619LB
Bluesy: Submariner Date, two-tone blueReferences: 116613LB126613LB
Panda: Daytona with a white dial and black subdialsReferences: 116500LN126500LN
Reverse Panda: Daytona with a black dial and contrasting subdials (the name is often used loosely)References: 116500LN126500LN
Paul Newman: Vintage Daytona, exotic dialReferences: 623962416262626362646265
John Mayer: Daytona, yellow gold, green dialReferences: 116508
Polar: Explorer II, white dialReferences: 16570216570226570
James Cameron: Deepsea, blue-to-black dialReferences: 116660126660
Wimbledon: Datejust with a slate grey dial and Roman numerals outlined in greenReferences: 126300126333126334
Rainbow: Daytona, rainbow gem-set bezelReferences: 116598RBOW116595RBOW116599RBOW
Nautilus: Patek Philippe NautilusReferences: 57111A58111G5712
Tiffany Blue: Patek Nautilus, Tiffany dialReferences: 57111A018
Aquanaut: Patek Philippe AquanautReferences: 5167A
Jumbo: AP Royal Oak 39mmReferences: 1520216202
Speedy / Moonwatch: Omega Speedmaster ProfessionalReferences: 310.30.42.50.01.0023570.50.00311.30.42.30.01.005310.30.42.50.01.001

Accessories & parts

Straps, links, boxes and parts around the watch.

Genuine Also: OEM · Original: Made by the watch brand itself.
Aftermarket Also: AM · Fits: Made by a third party to fit a brand's watches. Must say "fits", never the brand's name as maker.
NOS Part Also: New old stock: An old genuine part that was never used.
End Links: The pieces connecting a bracelet to the case; model-specific.
Clasp: The closing mechanism of a bracelet.
Deployant Also: Deployment clasp: Folding clasp used on straps instead of a pin buckle.
Pin Buckle Also: Tang buckle: Traditional buckle on a strap.
Lug Width: Distance between the lugs in mm; determines strap/bracelet fit.
Strap Size: The length/fit of a strap (e.g. S/M/L or a brand's size code).
Links Short Also: Short links · -X links: Number of bracelet links missing compared with a full bracelet.
Extra Links Also: Spare links: Removed links included with the watch.
Box Code: Code printed on a brand box identifying its size/type.
Green Wave Box Also: Modern Rolex box: The Rolex box design used from around 2005.
Outer Sleeve Also: Outer box: The exterior box or sleeve the presentation box sits in.
Vintage Box: Older brand box styles; value depends on matching the watch's era.
Caliber Also: Cal.: Movement reference used to match movement parts.

Built into Soda

These terms power listing details, tooltips, filters and search. Type “Batman” and you’ll find the 126710BLNR; type “B&P” and you’ll see full sets.

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