What does “Bust Down” mean?

Bust down, also called iced out, describes a watch that has had aftermarket diamonds added, often to the bezel, dial, case and bracelet. A full bust down usually means diamonds have been set across most or all of the watch, while a partial one may only have an aftermarket diamond bezel or dial.

Bust downs are popular in some fashion markets, but on the secondary market they are generally valued very differently from original watches. Collectors and many dealers prefer factory-original pieces, and adding diamonds usually means drilling or reworking the original case and bracelet, which cannot be undone. Brand service centres may refuse to service them. Quality also varies a great deal, from careful work to rough setting with inconsistent stones. Listings should always state that the diamonds are aftermarket, and describe the stones and setting honestly.

Typical usage: “Rolex Day-Date bust down, aftermarket diamonds on case, bezel, dial and bracelet, not factory set.” This should be contrasted clearly with factory-set gem watches, which are made by the brand.