What does “TT” mean?

TT stands for two-tone: a watch whose case and bracelet combine stainless steel with gold. Usually the bezel, crown and the centre links of the bracelet are gold while the rest is steel. Rolex calls this combination Rolesor, and other brands have their own names for it.

Two-tone watches cost more new than their steel equivalents because of the gold content, but on the secondary market demand for two-tone has moved in and out of fashion, so dealers watch the market for each reference rather than assuming a fixed premium. When buying, check the gold parts closely: gold is softer than steel, so the centre links and bezel often show wear sooner, and polishing can remove gold faster than steel. Plated aftermarket parts sometimes appear on older two-tone watches, so hallmarks and genuine parts are worth confirming.

Typical usage: “Datejust 41, TT yellow, 126333, champagne dial, Jubilee, 2023, full set.” The type of gold is often added, as in “TT rose” or “TT Everose”.