What does “Tapisserie” mean?

Tapisserie is the textured grid pattern on Audemars Piguet Royal Oak dials. It consists of small raised squares separated by fine grooves, made with a guilloché technique. The pattern has appeared in different scales over the years, including Petite Tapisserie on the original Royal Oak, Grande Tapisserie on many later models, and Méga Tapisserie on Royal Oak Offshore models.

The tapisserie pattern is one of the identifying features of the Royal Oak, and the size and style of the pattern help identify the reference and period. For buyers, the pattern should be crisp and even, with no damage or discolouration in the grooves. Because the Royal Oak is widely counterfeited, poorly defined or uneven tapisserie is one of the details authentication specialists look at. It is also one reason photos of these dials are taken close up and at an angle.

Typical usage: “Royal Oak 15500ST, blue Grande Tapisserie dial, crisp pattern, no marks.” A collector might add the scale of the pattern when describing a vintage or special reference.